torsdag 31. januar 2013

For a tiny heartbreaker...

Til en pitteliten hjerteknuser

One of my friends had a tiny little baby just over a week ago. And a little heartbreaker needs tiny, comfy, warm clothes. So I made this onesie and matching trousers for him. Supersoft merino wool (from Myllymuksut).
Ei venninne fikk en pitteliten gutt for litt mer en ei uke siden. Og små hjerteknusere trenger små klær som er varme og behageliere. Hva passer da bedre enn et sett i merinoull (fra Myllymuksut).

A little heart on the back... this week's Project Run & Play challenge was themed "Love is in the Air". 
Et hjerte applikert på rompa...

Size 44-56. Small babies grow quickly. So the idea was to make the garments last a little longer using extra long ribbing that can be folded up in the beginning and several sets of buttons on the onesie so it can grow a little with the baby. 
I drafted my own patterns, downsizing, changing, adding to two commercial patterns (ottobre).
Størrelse 44-56. Små barn vokser fort og da er det greit hvis klærne kan vokse litt i lag med dem. Derfor brukte jeg ekstra lang ribb som kan brettes opp i begynnelsen og flere knapper på bodyen.
Jeg tok utgangspunkt i noen ottobre mønstre, men jeg har forandret så mye (gjort mindre, forandret fasong, lagt til andre detaljer) at jeg tror jeg kan kalle det mine egne.

I don't have a tiny baby at home so Peter had to help out. He is 38 cm long and his proportions a little different from a baby's, but you get the idea.

 
Because Valentine's Day is coming up... I also finally got round to try out one of the crotchet patterns from Häkelfrühling by Kleeblatt. I was going to put this on a baby jacket, but I haven't got round to sewing that jacket yet.

søndag 27. januar 2013

Et evig prosjekt

My eternal project

 Endelig ble de ferdige (litt før jul), strikkebuksene til storebror. Jeg har strikket på dem, sånn av og til i nesten to år! Jeg strikker ikke så fryktelig sakte egentlig, men det tar jo likevel så lang tid. Det går så mye fortere å sy noe... Heldigvis hadde jeg begynt romslig nok oppe og ganske lange i livet så det var bare å strikke de lengre etter hvert.

I finally finished these knitted wool trousers for my oldest son. I started knitting them almost two years ago... Well, I don't knit that slowly, but still it takes so much longer than sewing.
Fortunately I had started them rather big so all I had to do to adjust was make the legs longer...




Det er jo mange slike monsterbukser rundt omkring, inspirert av crankypants... Jeg mekket sammen min egen variant, jeg ville nemlig ikke bare ha strikket munn, men et helt hode på rompa - og likevel strikke rundt. Jeg løste problemet ved å strikke på rundpinne, men med to nøster grønt og en nøste lilla, frem og tilbake slik at jeg krysset trådene i stedet for å trenge en søm.

Inspired by  crankypants I made my own pattern. I wanted a knitted head on the back, not just a mouth, but how to do that, knitting in the round? I ended up knitting back and forth on my circular needle, but used two skeins of green yarn and one purple, crossing the threads when I turned so I wouldn't have a seam anywhere.


Så måtte jeg jø prøve noe annet nytt når jeg først var i gang - og strikket beina på en lang rundpinne i magic loop. Det har mange fordeler - man slipper å bytte nål så ofte, man trenger ikke telle hvor brede stripene er på hvert bein, man bytter bare farge samtidig (man trenger eget garn for hvert bein da) og man er sikker på at man har nok av hver farge til symmetriske striper.
Hvis du ikke ahr hørt om det før finner du mange fine tutorials på you tube (søk på magic loop knitting eller noe sånt).

I had to try something else new while I was at it - so I used the magic loop technique for the legs. Check it out on you tube, there are lots of good tutorials there. Using one long circular needle to knit both legs simultaneously has some advantages: you don't have to switch needles as often, you don't have to count rounds to make sure the stripes are equal on both legs and you can easily make sure you have enough yarn of all colours to make symmetrical legs.

Den fine genseren har mammaen min strikket til ham.
My Mum made that gorgeous sweater for him.

torsdag 24. januar 2013

Boys' Week

Instead of making one outfit I decided to make some boy stuff I really needed to make this week.



The older one really, really, really needed new pjs. I mean his old ones were about 5 cm too short, both legs and arms... He wanted orange ones, so I made him these from the most deliciously soft merino wool fabric.
I used an ottobre pattern, but made it narrower and left out the divisions and collar and used snaps instead of a zipper. Size 116 (6 years).

Having grown quite a bit, he also needed new underpants, so I cut up some old t-shirts and combined them with those small fabric leftovers yo usually end up with.
I used an ottobre pattern for the first pair (bottom left), but didn't like it that much. So I drafted my own based on some store bought boxers. Size 110/116 (5/6 years).
All of them are sewn with flatlock seams. I love flatlock for things like these - smooth insides. You find a flatlock tutorial on my blog (Norwegian) if you want to find out more.
The little one and I got caught by the flu, so not all of these got hemmed as planned...

A raglan wool shirt size 140 (10 years) for an 8-year-old. I upsized the raglan T from Sewing for Boys.


torsdag 17. januar 2013

How to sew double sleeves on any shirt

You can put double sleeves like these on any shirt. It's easy! And this is how you do it:

 Take your favourite shirt pattern and cut the pattern piece for the arms in two. Your short sleeve will be about 2 cm longer than where you cut.
 Cut your fabric. My pattern didn't include seam allowances. Add 1 cm seam allowance on all sides of your long sleeve. Add 1 cm at the shoulder and side of the short sleeve and 5 cm where you cut the pattern.

 Sew long and short sleeve together using 1 cm seam allowance.

 Put your pattern pieces on the sleeve to see how much shorter it needs to be. The fabric in between the pattern pieces is the bit of the short sleeve overlapping the long sleeve. Fold it so that half of it comes to lie right side to right side on the long sleeve, the other half over the long sleeve.
Not sure that was clear... take the middle of the in between fabric and fold it so the two pattern pieces lie right next to each other. Put that fold onto your long sleeve.

 Stitch the short sleeve in place about 1.5 cm from the edge. You can use a twin needle or any other elastic stitch you prefer. Fold the second sleeve the same length as the first one and do the same there.

Assemble your shirt as usual.

Stripes and Dots

Project Run and Play week 2

This weeks challenge was to make a design using stripes and polka dots. I don't have many dotted fabrics, but I do have a lot of stripes. I felt like going a bit crazy, so I included no less than six different fabrics in this hooded shirt.

Someone likes his new shirt!

I found a very interesting history of dots in fashion when I was surfing for ideas for this project.


Pattern: Farbenmix Xater (slim version), size 116
First time I used this pattern and: I like it! As usual I made the shirt a couple of centimetres longer.
I thought the way the sleeves are assembled in the pattern was rather awkward though (with double sleeves all the way up, sewing them together before putting them on the shirt...), so I found my own way. Here's the tutorial!.

Fabrics: blue-brown organic interlock (Lin&Papir), organic dot interlock (Spoonflower - Hamburger Liebe), turquoise-white Campan jersey, three stripy jerseys (Myllymuksut)

lørdag 12. januar 2013

Piping Tutorial

How to make your own and how to use it

I LOVE piping! It just adds a little extra to many designs, makes a retro look, just how I like it. And you can put it between any two pieces of fabric you sew together. Since I'm so glad I discovered it I want to share my rather knew knowledge with you.
You can of course buy ready made piping (if you have, scroll further down), but making your own you can use just the fabric you like and - it's cheaper.

You need: 
- fabric of your choice, cut into 2.5 cm wide strips. If you use wovens: cut it on the bias, elastics any way you want.
- some 2 mm polyester cord (you can of course use thicker cord if you want the piping to be wider.

Cut your fabric into strips in a 45 degree angle to the edges.





I bought the cord in a DIY store (cheap!).


Make piping

 Sew those fabric strips together to make a long one (you can of course use bias tape instead, just cut it in half).

 Press seams open.
 
 Put the cord in the middle of the strip and sew right next to the cord. There are special piping feet for sewing machines, but your zipper foot (as used here) works just fine! 

 Your piping is now ready for use!

Pockets with piping

So, how did I make these pockets?
I cut out two half circles (well, roughly), the size you want the pockets to be plus 1 cm seam allowance where the piping is going to be and 2 cm on the straight edge.
Finish the straight edge (use a zigzag seam or a serger).

Stitch the piping to the edge of the right side of the pocket. Stitch close to the cord in your piping using your zipper foot (or piping foot if you have one).

 Press the seam allowance and the piping (except the cord of course) to the left side. Fold in 2 cm of the straight egde and stich in place about 1.5 cm in.

Stitch the pockets to your trousers after you have closed the side seam. Use your zipper (piping) foot and stitch as close to the cord as possible.

Piping between two pieces of fabric/ piping edges

To insert piping between two seams or to add to an edge between main fabric and lining you stitch the piping to your main fabric as described above.

Before you press your seams, you sew the lining to the main fabric (or your two pieces of fabric together) right sides facing. The piping is between the fabrics. Sew as close to the cord as you can (zipper foot...), but be careful nor to sew through it.
Turn and press (edges) or press fabrics apart the way they are supposed to be and topstitch close to the cord (edges) or about 0.5 cm from it to secure the seam allowances.


fredag 11. januar 2013

Party Dress goes Boy

Project Run and Play - week 1

So Project Run and Play has started again and this week's challenge was to remix the Party Dress Pattern by Lindsay at The Cottage Home.
I have no little girl to make dresses for so I wanted to remix it into something one of my boys could wear. I ended up with some romper style flared trousers for the little one.


Changes to the original pattern:

I took the bodice of the original pattern, size 18-24 months (adding a little on the shoulders, at the bottom and in the back)


Then I put on trousers instead of a skirt. I used a trouser pattern (size 80/1 year) that I had lying around and added some length and flare. To find out how long they needed to be from shoulder to crotch I just measured some dungarees I had (size 86/18 months).

I liked the contrasting fabric at the bottom of the original dress, and the sash, so I turned these into a middle stripe and cuffs on my trousers.

Even though I like fabric coated buttons and loops I thought these would make the trousers a little too girly and decided to go for snaps instead.

 All the parts cut out.

I love all the details that make homemade clothes unique, so I added an owl application and piping on the bodice and pockets with piping on the trousers. I love piping! (And my next post might be a tutorial on how to make and use it...)

Almost forgot: the fabrics - brown baby cord (stoff & stil), a small piece owl baby cord by Hamburger Liebe (Michas Stoffecke), yellow cotton (quilting weight) as lining and a small red piece for the piping.